Tahran Azadlık Anıtı Meydanı
We do not know Iran well enough. It would not be wrong to say that this country, which had become closer to the West during the reign of the Shah, changed its tune after the 1979 revolution. It is said that one overestimates the place one has not visited and the subject one does not know. This saying also applies to Iran. For the last twenty years, the first things that come to mind when we think of Iran are Khomeini, ayatollahs, Shiism and veiled women. However, this neighbor right next door to us has an incredibly magical and rich world.
Tehran Imam Khomeini Kulliyeh
During my trips to Iran for export-related business at the paint company where I work, I had the chance to visit Tehran and Mashhad. First and foremost, I found the people in this country to be extremely calm and reserved. I thought of them as somewhat gentle, much like the people from Edirne, a city in Turkey. Iranians don't speak loudly or get angry with those who make mistakes in traffic like we do in the Mediterranean. When I jokingly asked my Iranian client once, "Did Ayatollah Khomeini make you this calm, or is it in your genes?" he chuckled and replied, "Both are true." Tehran, a city with a population of nearly 10 million, is just a 2.5-hour flight away from Istanbul, and it truly is a mysterious city that captivates you even before you land at the airport. I remember on my first visit, as the plane was descending, there was a sudden commotion among the passengers, especially among the women. Women returning from Istanbul and other places where they had the freedom to leave their heads uncovered hurriedly covered their heads. What was even more interesting was that even foreign women on the plane had to cover their heads. Yes, in Iran, women, including foreigners, cannot go out in public without covering their heads. On the other hand, these quiet people hold art in high regard. In Iran, almost everyone has a bit of a poet in them, as evidenced by the tradition of serving poetry to guests in their homes. They deeply respect their six great poets: Rumi, Attar, Ferdowsi, Saadi, Hafez, and Khayyam. The current regime, however, doesn't hold contemporary filmmakers and writers in the same esteem. Many dissident writers are still under pressure or in custody. My classmate from Galatasaray High School and a writer living in France, Nedim Gürsel, dedicated one of his books to Iran. In his book "Mehdiyi Beklerken" (Waiting for the Messiah), I had the opportunity to see Iran from a very different perspective. The book, which was written after his visits to Iran, includes both humorous and poignant scenes about how artists and writers are treated in Iran. It's said that there was a blind cleric who used to head the institution overseeing cinema in Iran at one point. Another funny situation is the censorship of the word "love" in novels or poetry. When I read about a brutal incident related to the pressure on artists, I was truly astonished. It is told that a well-known group of dissident writers in a city were traveling to an event, and the bus driver had been bought off by the regime. On a mountainous road, near a cliff, the driver suddenly opened the door and jumped out, escaping. Luckily, one of the writers, who had woken up from his sleep, managed to take control of the steering wheel just in time. As I mentioned, Iran is a magical world, and this also extends to their cuisine. When you visit homes or restaurants, you'll often see four different types of rice dishes served for lunch and dinner. But when you taste each variety individually, like the saffron rice, the vegetable rice, the pomegranate rice, and the meat rice, you understand and appreciate these unique flavors. Iranians tend to keep a slightly crispy layer at the bottom of the rice, which they call "tahdig." They also have a strong affinity for meat dishes. I discovered new wonders with each visit to this country. During my first stay at a hotel, I noticed a mark on the ceiling of the rooms that pointed towards the direction of Mecca. What was even more intriguing was that there was a small prayer rug and a hexagonal stone on the corner console in the rooms. This stone, which was a mix of black and green, I initially mistook for soap. But it wasn't soap, and I couldn't figure it out for a long time. However, during our trip to Mashhad, I would uncover the secret of this stone, among many other surprises.
Mashhad Imam Reza Kulliyeh
Mashhad is a city located near the Turkmenistan border and can be reached by plane from Tehran in just one hour. As is well known, Iran is predominantly of the Shia sect. However, if you were to imagine dressing a city in a "religious garment," I would say that Mashhad is the most fitting choice. Indeed, in this city, all roads lead to the "Imam Reza Shrine." In the Shia belief, the lineage of Imams, which begins with Imam Ali, places great importance on the 8th Imam, Imam Reza. The Imam Reza Shrine, located in the heart of the city and sprawling across a vast area, is truly stunning and will leave visitors in awe. The beautifully landscaped exterior area leads to an incredibly spacious inner courtyard, where men and women enter separately through different doors. The vast courtyard is covered with precious Iranian carpets, and people are seen praying. They continued to pray even if you passed in front of them. I noticed that many men had black spots on their foreheads in the crowd. Similarly, those in prayer placed their foreheads on a hexagonal stone during prostration. Suddenly, I remembered the stone in the hotel in Tehran and asked our guide about it. It turns out that according to Shia belief, prostrating on these stones is considered akin to prostrating on the ground, as it was done during the time of the Prophet. The Imam Reza Shrine is an incredibly crowded place visited by masses of people. It is said that on Fridays and holidays, the traffic in Mashhad becomes chaotic due to the visits to the shrine. Men and women visited the shrine separately. There were shouts and cries, and some individuals frequently led chants of "ya Ali, ya Muhammed," stirring up the crowd. The immense devotion shown to Imam Reza had a profound impact on us.Mashhad is a city located near the Turkmenistan border and can be reached by plane from Tehran in just one hour. As is well known, Iran is predominantly of the Shia sect. However, if you were to imagine dressing a city in a "religious garment," I would say that Mashhad is the most fitting choice. Indeed, in this city, all roads lead to the "Imam Reza Shrine." In the Shia belief, the lineage of Imams, which begins with Imam Ali, places great importance on the 8th Imam, Imam Reza. The Imam Reza Shrine, located in the heart of the city and sprawling across a vast area, is truly stunning and will leave visitors in awe. The beautifully landscaped exterior area leads to an incredibly spacious inner courtyard, where men and women enter separately through different doors. The vast courtyard is covered with precious Iranian carpets, and people are seen praying. They continued to pray even if you passed in front of them. I noticed that many men had black spots on their foreheads in the crowd. Similarly, those in prayer placed their foreheads on a hexagonal stone during prostration. Suddenly, I remembered the stone in the hotel in Tehran and asked our guide about it. It turns out that according to Shia belief, prostrating on these stones is considered akin to prostrating on the ground, as it was done during the time of the Prophet. The Imam Reza Shrine is an incredibly crowded place visited by masses of people. It is said that on Fridays and holidays, the traffic in Mashhad becomes chaotic due to the visits to the shrine. Men and women visited the shrine separately. There were shouts and cries, and some individuals frequently led chants of "ya Ali, ya Muhammed," stirring up the crowd. The immense devotion shown to Imam Reza had a profound impact on us.Mashhad is a city located near the Turkmenistan border and can be reached by plane from Tehran in just one hour. As is well known, Iran is predominantly of the Shia sect. However, if you were to imagine dressing a city in a "religious garment," I would say that Mashhad is the most fitting choice. Indeed, in this city, all roads lead to the "Imam Reza Shrine." In the Shia belief, the lineage of Imams, which begins with Imam Ali, places great importance on the 8th Imam, Imam Reza. The Imam Reza Shrine, located in the heart of the city and sprawling across a vast area, is truly stunning and will leave visitors in awe. The beautifully landscaped exterior area leads to an incredibly spacious inner courtyard, where men and women enter separately through different doors. The vast courtyard is covered with precious Iranian carpets, and people are seen praying. They continued to pray even if you passed in front of them. I noticed that many men had black spots on their foreheads in the crowd. Similarly, those in prayer placed their foreheads on a hexagonal stone during prostration. Suddenly, I remembered the stone in the hotel in Tehran and asked our guide about it. It turns out that according to Shia belief, prostrating on these stones is considered akin to prostrating on the ground, as it was done during the time of the Prophet. The Imam Reza Shrine is an incredibly crowded place visited by masses of people. It is said that on Fridays and holidays, the traffic in Mashhad becomes chaotic due to the visits to the shrine. Men and women visited the shrine separately. There were shouts and cries, and some individuals frequently led chants of "ya Ali, ya Muhammed," stirring up the crowd. The immense devotion shown to Imam Reza had a profound impact on us.Mashhad is a city located near the Turkmenistan border and can be reached by plane from Tehran in just one hour. As is well known, Iran is predominantly of the Shia sect. However, if you were to imagine dressing a city in a "religious garment," I would say that Mashhad is the most fitting choice. Indeed, in this city, all roads lead to the "Imam Reza Shrine." In the Shia belief, the lineage of Imams, which begins with Imam Ali, places great importance on the 8th Imam, Imam Reza. The Imam Reza Shrine, located in the heart of the city and sprawling across a vast area, is truly stunning and will leave visitors in awe. The beautifully landscaped exterior area leads to an incredibly spacious inner courtyard, where men and women enter separately through different doors. The vast courtyard is covered with precious Iranian carpets, and people are seen praying. They continued to pray even if you passed in front of them. I noticed that many men had black spots on their foreheads in the crowd. Similarly, those in prayer placed their foreheads on a hexagonal stone during prostration. Suddenly, I remembered the stone in the hotel in Tehran and asked our guide about it. It turns out that according to Shia belief, prostrating on these stones is considered akin to prostrating on the ground, as it was done during the time of the Prophet. The Imam Reza Shrine is an incredibly crowded place visited by masses of people. It is said that on Fridays and holidays, the traffic in Mashhad becomes chaotic due to the visits to the shrine. Men and women visited the shrine separately. There were shouts and cries, and some individuals frequently led chants of "ya Ali, ya Muhammed," stirring up the crowd. The immense devotion shown to Imam Reza had a profound impact on us.Mashhad is a city located near the Turkmenistan border and can be reached by plane from Tehran in just one hour. As is well known, Iran is predominantly of the Shia sect. However, if you were to imagine dressing a city in a "religious garment," I would say that Mashhad is the most fitting choice. Indeed, in this city, all roads lead to the "Imam Reza Shrine." In the Shia belief, the lineage of Imams, which begins with Imam Ali, places great importance on the 8th Imam, Imam Reza. The Imam Reza Shrine, located in the heart of the city and sprawling across a vast area, is truly stunning and will leave visitors in awe. The beautifully landscaped exterior area leads to an incredibly spacious inner courtyard, where men and women enter separately through different doors. The vast courtyard is covered with precious Iranian carpets, and people are seen praying. They continued to pray even if you passed in front of them. I noticed that many men had black spots on their foreheads in the crowd. Similarly, those in prayer placed their foreheads on a hexagonal stone during prostration. Suddenly, I remembered the stone in the hotel in Tehran and asked our guide about it. It turns out that according to Shia belief, prostrating on these stones is considered akin to prostrating on the ground, as it was done during the time of the Prophet. The Imam Reza Shrine is an incredibly crowded place visited by masses of people. It is said that on Fridays and holidays, the traffic in Mashhad becomes chaotic due to the visits to the shrine. Men and women visited the shrine separately. There were shouts and cries, and some individuals frequently led chants of "ya Ali, ya Muhammed," stirring up the crowd. The immense devotion shown to Imam Reza had a profound impact on us.Mashhad is a city located near the Turkmenistan border and can be reached by plane from Tehran in just one hour. As is well known, Iran is predominantly of the Shia sect. However, if you were to imagine dressing a city in a "religious garment," I would say that Mashhad is the most fitting choice. Indeed, in this city, all roads lead to the "Imam Reza Shrine." In the Shia belief, the lineage of Imams, which begins with Imam Ali, places great importance on the 8th Imam, Imam Reza. The Imam Reza Shrine, located in the heart of the city and sprawling across a vast area, is truly stunning and will leave visitors in awe. The beautifully landscaped exterior area leads to an incredibly spacious inner courtyard, where men and women enter separately through different doors. The vast courtyard is covered with precious Iranian carpets, and people are seen praying. They continued to pray even if you passed in front of them. I noticed that many men had black spots on their foreheads in the crowd. Similarly, those in prayer placed their foreheads on a hexagonal stone during prostration. Suddenly, I remembered the stone in the hotel in Tehran and asked our guide about it. It turns out that according to Shia belief, prostrating on these stones is considered akin to prostrating on the ground, as it was done during the time of the Prophet. The Imam Reza Shrine is an incredibly crowded place visited by masses of people. It is said that on Fridays and holidays, the traffic in Mashhad becomes chaotic due to the visits to the shrine. Men and women visited the shrine separately. There were shouts and cries, and some individuals frequently led chants of "ya Ali, ya Muhammed," stirring up the crowd. The immense devotion shown to Imam Reza had a profound impact on us.Mashhad is a city located near the Turkmenistan border and can be reached by plane from Tehran in just one hour. As is well known, Iran is predominantly of the Shia sect. However, if you were to imagine dressing a city in a "religious garment," I would say that Mashhad is the most fitting choice. Indeed, in this city, all roads lead to the "Imam Reza Shrine." In the Shia belief, the lineage of Imams, which begins with Imam Ali, places great importance on the 8th Imam, Imam Reza. The Imam Reza Shrine, located in the heart of the city and sprawling across a vast area, is truly stunning and will leave visitors in awe. The beautifully landscaped exterior area leads to an incredibly spacious inner courtyard, where men and women enter separately through different doors. The vast courtyard is covered with precious Iranian carpets, and people are seen praying. They continued to pray even if you passed in front of them. I noticed that many men had black spots on their foreheads in the crowd. Similarly, those in prayer placed their foreheads on a hexagonal stone during prostration. Suddenly, I remembered the stone in the hotel in Tehran and asked our guide about it. It turns out that according to Shia belief, prostrating on these stones is considered akin to prostrating on the ground, as it was done during the time of the Prophet. The Imam Reza Shrine is an incredibly crowded place visited by masses of people. It is said that on Fridays and holidays, the traffic in Mashhad becomes chaotic due to the visits to the shrine. Men and women visited the shrine separately. There were shouts and cries, and some individuals frequently led chants of "ya Ali, ya Muhammed," stirring up the crowd. The immense devotion shown to Imam Reza had a profound impact on us.
Tehran Nightlife
Daily life and the streets in Iran are very lively. Tehran's boulevards are quite wide, and the urban landscaping is beautiful. While the general dress code in Iran is modest, the clothing of women you see on the streets can vary depending on their socio-economic status. Middle and lower-class and highly religious women often wear the chador. University girls, on the other hand, might pair black or green overcoats with jeans and sneakers. Wealthier women prefer loosely draped head coverings. When it comes to entertainment, alcohol is prohibited, of course, and public displays of affection, such as holding hands, are not allowed for anyone other than married couples. The Revolutionary Guard, a paramilitary force, discreetly monitors society. Iranian men have places where they can take their families for leisure. I remember visiting one of these places and being struck by families sitting in wooden pavilions, smoking hookahs facing each other. These are just some of the many mysterious aspects of Iran that I can share. It's a country that must be visited.
Fazil Alasya /Flavors of Our Life
AUTHOR:
**Fazıl Alasya*
Foreign Trade Consultant. Born in 1951 in Istanbul. Graduated in 1970 from Galatasaray High School. In 1975, he graduated from Istanbul University, Faculty of Business Administration, Department of Production. Since then, he worked in various positions in the private sector.
After his retirement, Fazıl Alasya gave Foreign Trade Lectures at Informa Academy. He is currently working as a freelance Foreign Trade Consultant. He writes various research articles on Foreign Trade, Motivation-Personal Development. Poetry-Article-Story works are made and published in the media. He also has articles in the Art-Literature Magazine named "Dream and Mythos".
He is the 2nd generation representative of Alasya Oyuncak, Turkey's first toy company.
He speaks fluent French and English and basic German. He is married and has 3 children.
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